How many times have you wondered whether a certain cosmetic is really natural, or is it just pretending to be people and earth-friendly? You're not alone. Many people are confused about the term "natural cosmetics." This is not surprising since the Food and Drug Administration does not have a strict definition for the term "natural." This allows many cosmetics companies to advertise their products as being natural, even though their cosmetics are just "dusted" with a few natural ingredients. And, more important, many of these so-called "natural" cosmetics actually contain ingredients that are harmful to both the body and the earth.

So how can you know which products are truly natural, and therefore, good for your skin and for the environment? The best way is to read the list of ingredients, and to be familiar with which ingredients are really good for your skin, and which are harmful. It is also very important to be aware of the order in which cosmetic ingredients are listed on the label.

According to FDA regulations, ingredients must be listed in order from largest to smallest amounts used -- unless the quantity of the ingredient is 1% or less, in which case, the ingredients may be listed in any order.

Let's use jojoba oil as an example. This is a great moisturizer in the right quantity. How much jojoba oil is used in a particular product? It is not enough to have the "right" ingredients, they must be used in amounts that really work. If you see jojoba oil near the end of the list of ingredients, chances are that only a tiny amount was used, and it was for labeling purposes only.

If you are buying online, check the company's website for ingredients lists of their products. The companies that sell truly natural products will be comfortable publishing their lists of ingredients. Don't be shocked if there is a flowery description of how wonderful the product is, followed by the word "contains," and just a few of the (natural, of course!) ingredients contained.

One reason why all of a skin product's ingredients should be listed on websites and labels is that so many people today have allergies. It is not enough for cosmetics to be "hypoallergenic." Many people have allergies to ingredients that are totally natural, such as honey or beeswax. Being open about their products' ingredients is just another way a company can show that it truly cares about its customers.

In order to choose the right product, you should know what to pay attention to when you read the label. Some companies do not obey the FDA's labeling rules, but instead, add descriptions that they think will entice you to buy their products.

A few examples of misleading terms used on labels:

"Sodium Laureth Sulfate (coconut derived)." Sodium Laureth Sulfate is a harsh detergent that should not be used in natural products even though it is derived from coconut. Some manufacturers want you to think that because of the term "coconut derived," the ingredient is natural. It is not.

Another example: Many products contain the description: "Infusion of organic herbs," followed by a long list of botanicals. The assumption is that the more herbs used, the more health benefits. Don't count on it. If you add a bag of peppermint tea to a cup of hot water, you will make an infusion. If you add the same bag of peppermint tea to a gallon of hot water, or to 5 gallons of hot water, technically it will still be an infusion, but you won't benefit from it. The problem is the words "herbal infusion," mean nothing unless you know how concentrated the infusion is. As I pointed out before, it is not enough to use the right ingredients; they must be used in the right amounts if they are to benefit us.

One more point: In studies, parabens have been linked to breast cancer, so many women avoid cosmetics that contain them. Sometimes labels will try to reassure you by saying: "This product contains less than 0.25% parabens." Though this amount seems small, you should still be concerned. The real problem with parabens is not with the amount used, but with the fact that these chemicals can penetrate the skin and accumulate in the body's tissue. This can be especially risky if you use several of these products on your skin, each one containing a small amount of parabens!

It's beyond the scope of a short article to provide every example of mislabeling, but hopefully this will inspire you to be more vigilant when purchasing cosmetics.

Creating skincare and hair care products that are truly natural and good for your skin is costly. This is why so many cosmetics companies look for ways to cut corners, while still giving the impression that their products are natural and good for you. The only way to make sure you are buying products that are truly natural is to buy from a company you can trust - one that's committed to health and beauty, and - like Gems & Herbs -- proudly lists its natural ingredients on all its labels and on its website.

Ewa Farjon, M.S., has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 2001, and has years of experience in the cosmetics industry as a formulation chemist. Today, she utilizes her knowledge and skills to develop natural, holistic products without harsh chemicals for her own company, Gems & Herbs Ms. Farjon is also an international speaker and SPA consultant. E-mail her at: gemsandherbs@yahoo.com